{"id":1704,"date":"2020-10-20T08:17:49","date_gmt":"2020-10-20T06:17:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ambogdan.com\/?p=1704"},"modified":"2020-11-19T11:50:41","modified_gmt":"2020-11-19T09:50:41","slug":"give-credit-fashion-designers-tory-burch-resort-2018","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ambogdan.com\/give-credit-fashion-designers-tory-burch-resort-2018\/","title":{"rendered":"When Fashion Designers Forget to #givecredit"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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The fact that the Romanian IA continues to be an is amazing source of inspiration for fashion designers all over the world is a fact. The Romanian IA \u2013 The Fashion Icon Designers Love<\/em><\/a> is one article I wrote many years ago, but updated it recently. It honors those fashion designers who, continuing Henri Matisse’s work, spread the word around the world about the beauty of the Romanian IA. Sadly,\u00a0this new article about the Romanian folk costume tells a different story … about those fashion designers who forget to give credit and honor the Romanian local culture which inspired their collections. I am talking about Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Carolina Herrera, Valentino, Isabel Marant, Joseph Altazzura, Nili Lotan and others.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Fashion designers who forget to give credit<\/span><\/h2><\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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One needs to understand that in the fashion industry, the use of local cultures symbols, patterns, cuts and so on is not something new. Some fashion designers acknowledged their source of inspiration. They gave credit to the local cultures, this way honoring generations of women who preserved these traditions. To be very clear, they adapted those elements in a manner fit for the contemporary women. It’s not something they just copied and pasted.\u00a0<\/p>

In the recent years, the online space talks about fashion industry’s unfairness towards local cultures and cultural appropriation is a hot topic.\u00a0<\/span>If fashion houses like Gaultier or Valentino are great examples for crediting their source of inspiration,\u00a0<\/span>some of fashion designers did exactly that. They just took credit for something it was never theirs. Or, in other cases, as you’ll see, they attributed to other cultures.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Tom Ford (2012)<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Tom Ford\u2019s 2012 spring collection was one of the most well-kept secrets in the fashion industry. Critics and fashion lovers had to wait for 2 months before seeing a glimpse of the mesmerizing collection. There were lots of pencil skirts with tops, raffia, lace, beading, intricate embroidery, fringe, leather and sex appeal, but also many folk-inspired pieces. Spain, South America and Romania were the main sources of inspiration.\u00a0<\/p>

Hamish Bowles, mentioned in his Vogue article dedicated to Ford\u2019s 2012 spring collection:<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\" (...) there was a thread of Pre-Raphaelite romanticism in embroidered peasant blouses (of the type Matisse loved to paint), and even frothy, Renaissance-sleeved dresses that evoked the work of the great sixties and seventies London designer Ossie Clark.\"<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Hamish Bowles<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
English fashion journalist and editor<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Singer Adele made Vogue magazine\u2019s cover photo (2012) wearing Tom Ford\u2019s outfit inspired by the Romanian IA from Sibiu area (Transilvania). What is representative for the peasant blouse of Sibiu is the harmony of the white and black colors; the thin and intricate embroidery is mostly done with black threads. In rare cases, it has some red, green, blue, golden or silver threads.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

In an interview with Laura Kathleen, Fashion Magazine, Tom Ford himself makes some kind of acknowledgment to Yves Saint Laurent’s influence.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u201cI\u2019ve streamlined things more this season. I think I\u2019m very classic, because what I do is always based on something you\u2019ve seen before. And yes, maybe there\u2019s something YSL about it. When I left off designing for women, I was at YSL so I\u2019m working through that to be me, asking myself, What do I like? What defines your brand?\u201d<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Tom Ford<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
American fashion designer<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Carolina Herrera (2013)<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Carolina Herrera 2013 Spring\/ Summer collection uses embroidery elements that look quite similar with those found on the Romanian folk blouse.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Joseph Altuzzara (2014)<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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French-born, luxury women’s ready-to-wear clothing designer Joseph Altuzzara, launched his brand, Altuzarra, in New York in 2008. The patterns from some of the pieces of Altuzzara’s Pre-Spring 2014 collection are not similar or inspired, but quite identical! No personal touch, no real contribution of his own. The gallery below illustrates quite well, I would say, this resemblance. I was really happy to easily find great quality online resources documenting Romanian traditional embroidery. Ioana Corduneanu’s Semne Cusute blog is just one of them.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Altuzarra used what in Romania is called \"creasta de cocos\" symbol or coxcomb in English (see image on the right corner). <\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Once again Altuzarra uses another Romanian folkloric symbol, the eigth-pointed star. On the left side you can see some examples taken from our original IAs. <\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This time it's about a bunch of traditional Romanian symbolic elements combined.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Yet, Altuzarra told Vogue magazine that this collection he designed this supremely elegant collection \u201cin the heat of summer\u2014in Greece\u201d<\/em> and the clothes certainly seemed ready to waft into an Aegean island wardrobe.<\/p>

Don\u2019t get me wrong, Greek traditional embroidery is amazing, yet has nothing to do with Romanian tradition. You will never see a meander (aka meandrous), the so well-known Greek decorative motif on a Romanian IA. Oh, yes, I forgot, when it comes to marketing, Greece or Aegean Sea sound much better than Romania!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Emilio Pucci (2015)<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Peter Dundas injected a Sixties\u2019 vibe into his pretty Emilio Pucci 2015 resort collection. Inspiring and feminine at the same time! Yet, what caught my attention was once the incredible resemblance of certain patterns and motifs he used with the Romanian symbols of the hand-made embroidery from Muscel area. To see for yourself, I\u2019ve put together some examples of such Romanian authentic embroidery next to Pucci\u2019s creations.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Isabel Marant (2015)<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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French fashion designer Isabel Marant, known for her bohemian aesthetic and fervently coveted creations, caught the attention of the public eye with her collection. What she failed to mention was the fact that some of her most representation pieces were inspired by the Romanian folkloric costume.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Some of her pieces are identical with the modern folkloric blouses you can buy anywhere in Romania. The starting price s around Euro 50 for less embroidered IAs. For those handmade IAs that long sleeves and are almost entirely embroidered, the price can go up to Euro 250-300. In Marant\u2019s case, the retail price is USD410. If you loved it, definitely you should try finding some authentic IAs. There are plenty of online Romanian shops that sell and deliver them abroad!\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Romanian \"Suman\" VS Burch copy-cat coat<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Tory Burch - Resort 2018<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Tory Burch 2018 Resort collection – when first made public, the American designer claimed it was inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Princess Elizabeth of Toro, an Ugandan lawyer, diplomat, model.\u00a0If you want to dig for more, enjoy what <\/span>Vogue Magazine<\/a> had to say on this matter.\u00a0<\/span>Below the initial statement made by <\/span>Tory Burch on her website<\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u201cWe looked to two women: Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Princess Elizabeth of Toro, the stunning diplomat, lawyer and model who lived here, in New York, in the late Sixties. They both had a unique style \u2014 they epitomized elegance in simplicity and as consummate travelers, they had a cosmopolitan sense of ease and far-flung references\u2026\"<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Tory Burch<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
American fashion designer<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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What you’ll be reading next is the beginning of what today is known as #givecredit movement. I say “movement” and later you’ll understand better why. Yet, a brief explanation would be that people and communities from all over the world joined around #givecredit campaign. Truth to be told, Romanians are not the only one facing such issues.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Romanian coat (above) dates from the early 20th century and is credited as a 1981 gift of Christine Valmy. For those who do not know, Valmy was was born in Romania, but she made a great career in America as an esthetician, consultant and entrepreneur. She is known as a pioneer in the fields of skin care and esthetics and recognized by the United States Congress …<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u201cfor her contributions to education in America [\u2026and for] creating a new, exciting avenue of careers for the young people of America.\u201d<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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about Christine Valmy <\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Suman - The Romanian autumn-winter coat<\/h2> \n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Suman is the name of this pieace of the Romanian traditional coat used by Tory Burch.\u00a0<\/span>The\u00a0<\/span>suman\u00a0<\/em>was wore (and still are) by both women and men in various regions of Romania,\u00a0<\/span>Gorj region being one of them<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>

As you know, the African continent is one of the hottest on Earth. The lowest temperature ever measured in Africa was \u221224 \u00b0C (\u221211 \u00b0F) at Ifrane, Morocco. That was on February 11, 1935!!! In Romania, during winter the average temperatures are between 3\u02daC and -15\u02daC. And it is not uncommon to go below \u221215 \u00b0C (5 \u00b0F) in the highest mountains. The lowest temperature was \u221238.5 \u00b0C (\u221237.3 \u00b0F), registered near Bra\u0219ov in 1942.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

I truly doubt the African tribes need such winter coats! I am sure if they ever needed ones, they would have made and looked totally different.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\r\n \r\n The Suman – A Romanian Folk Coat Fit for a Queen\r\n <\/a>\r\n<\/h2> \r\n
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by Ana-Maria Bogdan<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/div>
Published on<\/span>
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\"Queen<\/a><\/span><\/figure> \n \n \n
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Way long before Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Dior, Tory Burch and other famous designers discover the beauty of the Romanian folk costume, there was an extraordinary woman who loved and promoted the suman. Her name was Queen Marie of Romania.<\/p>\n \r\n<\/div>\r\n \r\n \n \n <\/div>\n \n \n <\/div>\n \n \r\n

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